Parrot Diseases - Avian Diseases
A Comprehensive list of the most common Parrot Diseases. All parrot diseases require professional help to both identify and cure.
Please do consult your Vet if you suspect any Illness with your parrot.
Parrot Disease you wish to Research
Psittacosis Disease See Avian Chlamydia below
Pacheco Disease in Parrots - PVD
Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease - PBFD
Feather Plucking in Parrots
Avian Salmonella
Escherichia coli - E. coli
Avian Tuberculosis
Avian Chlamydi
Avian Polyomavirus
Proventricular Dilation Disease - PDD
More interesting reading:-
Parrot and Bird Feather Anatomy
Feather Plucking
Parrot Biting
Avian Pacheco PVD
Information kindly supplied by www.avianbiotech.co.uk
Description:
Pacheco's disease - This disease is caused by a number of closely related members of the herpesviridae. Herpesviruses are 120 to 220 nm in diameter and their genome has a double stranded DNA structure. Replication of the virus occurs in the nucleus of a cell. These viruses primarily infect lymphatic tissue (B or T cells), skin (epithelial cells) and nerve cells.
PDV was first recognized in Brazil where aviculturalists began seeing birds dying only a few days after becoming ill. The virus can start shedding in the feces and nasal discharge of an infected bird in as little as 3-7 days after infection. Considered highly contagious , PDV can spread rapidly through an aviary. Often the first sign that the disease is present is when a new bird is introduced to an aviary and healthy birds begin mysteriously dying. Pacheco's disease is often fatal and affects psittacines of all ages. New World psittacines seem to be more susceptible to the disease than Old World psittacines.
Transmission:
Transmission of PDV is generally through infected feces and nasal discharge. PDV remains remarkably stable outside the host body as a dust or aerosol. This dust or aerosol contaminates the air that is then inhaled by another possible host. Contaminated surfaces, food, and drinking water may also contribute to the spread of the disease. Birds can be asymptomatic carriers of Pacheco's virus. Some believe that any bird that has survived an outbreak of the disease should be considered as a possible carrier. PDV can be reactivated when the bird is under stress such as during breeding, loss of mate, or change and environmental changes. Once it is reactivated the virus is shed in large numbers in the feces of the infected bird.
Symptoms:
Symptoms include lethargy, diarrhea, ruffled feathers, sinusitis, anorexia, conjunctivitis, and tremors in the neck, wing and legs.
Fecal material may become discolored with urates becoming green indicating possible liver damage has occurred. Birds generally die from massive liver necrosis characterized by an enlarged liver, spleen and kidneys. However, some birds die suddenly with no specific or observable symptoms.
Seemingly healthy birds often die quickly from Pacheco's disease. Generally stress associated with relocation, breeding, loss of mate or climate changes can activate the virus and result in activation of the disease and it's symptoms as well as shedding large numbers of the virus in the feces.
Prevention:
Isolate all birds shedding PDV. Disinfect all contaminated surfaces with an oxidizer such as chlorine bleach (as Pacheco's virus is resistant to many disinfectants, alcohol does not work because it is not an oxidizer). It is also important to replace all air filters and clean vents and fan blades.
A killed virus vaccine is available and can be given in a series of two injections, 4 weeks apart (yearly booster shots are required). Some species, such as cockatoos and Eclectus parrots, have had vaccination reactions such as granulomas and paralysis. Additionally, the vaccine may not protect against all forms of PDV. Only birds with high risk of exposure, such as pet store birds, should be vaccinated.
Quarantine all new birds for 30-60 days and use PCR testing to determine whether or not birds are infected. Isolate birds who have been exposed to Pacheco's virus.
Treatment:
Acyclovir is effective against some strains of Pacheco's but may cause kidney damage. Acyclovir works best when treatment is started before symptoms appear.
Diagnosis:
PCR and sequence testing for specific PDV DNA. Histopathology.
Sample:
In live birds please submit both a blood sample and a cloacal swab sample for each bird.
The Virus can be isolated from tissue samples of the liver, spleen or kidney submitted in a sterile container.
Environmental testing using swabs of aviaries, countertops, fans,
air-filters, nest-boxes, etc. is extremely effective when in determining the presence of Pacheco's virus DNA in the environment.
Handling:
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. (refrigerator). Samples must be shipped in a padded envelope or box. Samples may be sent by regular mail, but overnight is recommended.
Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD)
Information kindly supplied by www.avianbiotech.co.uk
Description
Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease - The virus causing this disease is a member of the Circoviridae. The molecular structure of the genome of the virus is roughly a 2,000 base, circular, single stranded DNA.
PBFD virus has a strong resemblance to Porcine Circovirus as well as to a number of plant viruses such as the Banana Bungy virus.
The disease is thought to be specific for psittacines and all psittacine species should be considered susceptible. Parrots known to be particularly affected by PBFD include, but are not limited to, Cockatoos, Macaws African Grey Parrots, Ringneck parakeets, Eclectus Parrots, Lovebirds.
Causes fatal infections, primarily in young birds. Older birds may overcome the disease with few lasting affects.Some believe that these surviving birds become carriers able to shed the disease at a later date.
Others believe that a percentage of birds are able to eradicate the disease from their system leaving them with a natural immunity that can be passed on to their offspring.
The virus that causes PBFD can also affect the liver, brain, and immune system causing diminished resistance to infections. Consequently premature death usually occurs from these secondary bacterial, fungal, parasitic, or viral infections.
Transmission
Transmission of the virus from one individual to another is primarily through direct contact, inhalation or ingestion of aerosols, crop-feeding, infected fecal material, and feather dust. The virus can also be transmitted via contaminated surfaces such as bird carriers, feeding formula, utensils, food dishes, clothing, and nesting materials. The viral particles, if not destroyed can remain viable in the environment for months, long after the infected bird is gone.
Symptoms
Symptoms include irreversible loss of feathers, shedding of developing feathers, development of abnormal feathers, new pinched feathers, and loss of powder down. Other possible symptoms include overgrown or abnormal beak,
symmetrical lesions on the beak and occasionally nails.
Immunosuppression,rapid weight loss, and depression are also possible in later stages of the disease.
Secondary viral, fungal, bacterial or parasitic infections often occursas a result of diminished immunity caused by a PBFD viral infection. Additional symptoms not mentioned above including elevated white cell counts are generally due to secondary infections and may not be directly related to PBFD virus infections.
Prevention
Strict isolation of all diseased birds to halt the the spread of the disease. DNA testing of all birds of susceptible species to rule out latent infection. DNA testing of aviary equipment and environment to test for possible contamination.
Treatment
No known treatment. Experimental vaccines are being developed.
Diagnosis
Skin biopsy, surgical biopsy of feather and shaft, or PCR testing of blood, swab, and feather samples.
PBFD should be considered in any bird suffering from abnormal feather loss or development. A biopsy of the abnormal feathers including the calimus (shaft) of the feather can be examined for signs of virus. However, since the PBFD virus does not affect all feathers simultaneously this method of evaluating a sample may have a high degree of error. Additionally, birds with PBFD can have normal feathers and the PCR test is the most effective method available for detecting the virus in birds before feather lesions develop.
Some birds infected with the virus, test positive, but never show clinical signs. Other birds which test positive may develop an immune response sufficient enough to fight off the infection and test negative after 30-90 days. Therefore, it is recommended to re-test all PBFD positive birds 60-90 days after the initial testing was completed. If the second sample remains positive, the bird should be considered permanently infected and can be expected to show clinical symptoms of the disease.
Sample
To test an individual bird a whole blood sample is recommended in conjunction with a cloacal swab or feathers (especially abnormal or suspicious-looking feathers) when possible. If the sample tests positive the bird should be placed in quarantine and re-tested after 4-6 weeks. If the bird tests negative the second time a third test after 4-6 weeks is recommended.
Post-mortem samples include liver, spleen, kidney, feather samples in a sterile container; postmortem swabs may also be submitted.
Environmental testing using swabs of aviaries, countertops, fans, air-filters, nest-boxes, etc. is extremely effective in determining the presence of PBFD DNA in the environment.
*It is recommenced to submit both a whole blood and cloacal swab sample for analysis when possible.
Handling:
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. (refrigerator). Samples must be shipped in a padded envelope or box. Samples may be sent by regular mail, but overnight is recommended.
Feather Plucking
Information kindly supplied by www.parrotcare.com
Most parrot owners who have a parrot with feather plucking problems find the condition extremely distressing not only for the bird but also for themselves. There is a feeling of guilt that somehow they are not providing there parrot with what he needs to maintain physical and mental health.
Commitment to solving the problem by the owner is very important and even then it may be a long process. Once feather plucking has started it means the parrot has had a problem for much longer than the manifestation of the symptoms i.e. visual feather plucking. I would like to quote from an recent article by an eminent Parrot Vet. "The single most significant medical cause of feather plucking in pet birds is an inadequate diet.
A report showed that up to 90% of all sick birds taken to the vets were suffering from "primary nutritional deficiencies" This is a very poor reflection on our parrot nutrition, and is an issue which needs to be addressed." The parrot diet recommended by Parrotcare is based on 30 years experience of breeding and keeping pet birds with great success and where feather plucking has been eliminated. The products sold in the diets are used at Parrotcare [ We don't sell any product unless they are tried with success over a sustain period of time!]
Your parrot needs to see a veterinary surgeon so that she can be checked over regarding her skin problem.
The causes of feather plucking or loss are:
o Boredom and/or neurosis. This is similar to human's biting their fingernails and this is the commonest reason for psittacine birds to loose their feathers
o Poor quality feathers due to malnutrition, poor husbandry or hormonal imbalance
o Poor quality feathers due to malnutrition, poor husbandry or hormonal imbalance
o Inflammation of the follicles from a bacterial or fungal infection
o Feather mites. These are rare
o Damaged feathers where the bird is kept in accommodation that is too small
o Stress or fault lines where the barbules don't hook together. This is usually due to nutritional deficiencies
o Moulting puts any bird under severe nutritional and physiological stress, so the diet should be tailored to the specific needs at the time
o 'Psittacine beak and feather syndrome'. Affected birds show progressive deterioration in the quantity and quality of the feathers. The clinical abnormalities are due to a problem with the growth of the feathers, and the cause is possibly due to a viral infection. Often a secondary bacterial infection can be fatal
o 'French moult'.In the UK, this is where the feather replacement is slower than normal. It may be due to an excess of Vitamin A. there is no specific treatment, but diets containing high levels of vitamin A should be avoided but the diet should be of a high nutritional value
o Skin parasites, such as fleas, lice and ticks are fairly rare but can cause skin irritation
Parrots are very intelligent animals and they are thought to have the same level of intelligence as a five-year-old child. It is therefore very important that they get mental stimulation, as the commonest cause of feather plucking is boredom. Is the parrot left alone for long periods of time? If so, make sure that whenever she's left you have the video, TV or radio on. Make sure there are plenty of toys for your parrot to play with. For example, pieces of suspended chain, bells or keys, taking care that the leg bands do not get caught in the open links, are interesting. Blocks of hardwood, bark covered branches from native British hardwoods or fruit trees provide mental stimulation.
Also make sure there is enough space for the parrot if it is kept in a cage. Many parrot cages are very near the necessary minimum. The cage must be at least big enough to allow the bird to fully extend their wings and the tail should also be well clear of the floor when the bird is perched.
Salmonella
Information kindly supplied by www.avianbiotech.co.uk
Description
Salmonella - Salmonella species are gram negative, aerobic, rod-shaped, zoonotic bacteria that can infect people, birds, reptiles, and other animals. This genus includes approximately 2000 species divided into five subgenera. Of the five subgenera, two subgenera, subgenus I and subgenus III, can be found in birds. Subgenus I contains the species of salmonella that most commonly infect birds. Subgenus III, contains the species Salmonella arizonae and arizona hinshawii, which have occasionally been reported in birds, particularly those that are in contact with, or close proximity to reptiles.
Most vertebrates can be infected with Salmonella however, the host susceptibility and development of carrier states vary widely among species. Free-ranging birds can be sub-clinical carriers and serve as a reservoir of bacteria.
In addition to free-ranging birds, flies, rats, and other vermins may also serve as vectors of Salmonella.
The incidence of various Salmonella species seems to vary with geographic location and the types of food consumed. Imported birds and animals may serve to introduce different Salmonella species to the local area that can cause new and devastating outbreaks.
Transmission
Transmission of this organism from one host to another is primarily through the air. The bacteria is shed from an infected bird in the nasal and or ocular secretions, fecal material, and feather dust. The organism remains stable outside the host body and dries as a dusty substance. This dust or aerosol contaminates the air that is then inhaled by another possible host.
Susceptibility as well as the amount of contamination determine whether or not the new host becomes infected with the disease. Other forms of transmission include infected hens feeding their young with contaminated crop contents, as well as contaminated feed and drinking water. Vertical transmission (transmission of the bacteria to and egg) can occur, subsequently chicks hatch and spread salmonella by direct contact.
The embryo may die if bacteria levels become to high.
The disease has a greater chance of spreading in overcrowded conditions, stale air environments, nest-boxes, and brooders. Pet shops, bird marts, and quarantine stations are also high risk areas.
Symptoms
General symptoms of Salmonella include lethargy, anorexia, and diarrhea. In chronic cases, arthritis (particularly in pigeons) may be present. With high dose infections excessive thirst, conjunctivitis along with indications of liver, spleen, kidney or heart damage can occur. Some individual avian species have unique clinical symptoms. Outbreaks in lories (Loriidae) are associated with an acute disease and high flock mortality. African Grey Parrots are also very susceptible, but they develop a more chronic disease showing symptoms such as mucus discharge from the beak/nasal area, arthritis, excessive thirst, and dermatitis. Droppings are colored a sulphur yellowish green which is very much a diagnostic sign for this microorganism.
Prevention
Proper hygiene is the best way to prevent outbreaks of Salmonella. Effective control of flies, rodents and other vermin are also essential eliminate in preventing Salmonella outbreaks. Strains of Salmonella present in companion birds are generally not considered to be of any danger to a healthy human being.
They may however, threaten infants, the elderly, or those with immunosuppressive diseases. Humans carrying Salmonella can infect their companion birds. Such human-to-animal interactions have been shown to occur, especially with African Greys, Amazons, Cockatoos and Macaws.
Treatment
Treatment of salmonella infections are more successful if the precise species is first determined. Once the particular species of salmonella has been identified, the appropriate antibiotic can be administered. The frequently found Salmonella strains are sensitive to many commonly available antibiotics, but strains from free ranging birds have varying degrees of resistance.
ANTIBIOTICS:
Kanamycin: Dosage: .01 mgl to one gram of body weight intramuscularly twice daily.
Gentamycin: Dosage: .01 mg to one gram of body weight intramuscularly once daily or 25 mg. to 120 ml of drinking water orally.
Trimethoprim/Sulfamethoxazole Suspension: Dosage .002 ml to one gram of body weight orally twice daily.
Sodium Sulfachiorpridazine Powder: Dosage ¼ tsp to 120 ml drinking water
ANTIDIARRHEALS:
Pepto Bismol: Coats the intestinal tract. Helps to form a firmer stool. Dosage 2-3 drops in the mouth, 3 times daily.
Kaopectate: Daolin and pectin coat the intestinal tract and form a firmer stool. Dosage 3 drops in the mouth 3 times daily.
*Please check with the manufacturer of the specific antibiotic for additional information before treatment is started. Allays consult with your local avian veterinarian for additional information before treating individuals.
Diagnosis
A confirmed diagnosis requires isolation and identification of the Salmonella species. Most strains of Salmonella are motile, or capable of moving spontaneously, and grow on common media. However these assays provide a low degree of identity. PCR and sequence assays are also available, and results of these assays proved more precise information as to the type of Salmonella strain involved.
Sample
Samples from suspected birds are collected with cloacal swabs. Any mucus discharge from the eyes and nasal area should also be collected on a second swab. Swabs must be sterile and transported in a correct medium.Environmental swabs can also be submitted to help evaluate the environment.
Handling
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. Samples must be shipped overnight in a transport medium
Escherichia coli (E. coli)
Information kindly supplied by www.avianbiotech.co.uk
Description
Escherichia coli - commonly referred to as E. coli, this Gram-negative bacterium is a member of the Enterobacteriacae species. While many harmless or beneficial strains of E. coli occur widely in nature, including the intestinal tracts of humans and other vertebrates, birds and reptiles pathogenic types are a frequent cause of both enteric and urogenital tract infections. Several different types of pathogenic E. coli are capable of causing disease.
A particularly dangerous type is referred to as enterohemorrhagic E. coli, or EHEC. The first such strain was identified in the United States in 1982. Since then, EHEC strains have been associated with food-borne outbreaks traced to undercooked hamburgers, unpasteurized apple juice or cider, salad, salami, and unpasteurized milk. EHEC strains produce toxins that have effects similar to those produced by bacteria of the Shigella genus. These enterotoxins can damage the lining of the intestine, cause anemia, stomach cramps and bloody diarrhea, and hemolytic uremic syndrome (HUS) leading to kidney failure. In North America, HUS is the most common cause of acute kidney failure in children.
In Birds
Birds, especially psittacines, are less dependent on E. coli and rely on a more Gram-positive gut flora. However, softbills such as the passerines (finches, jays, songbirds), columbiforms (pigeons and doves), galliforms (chicken-like birds), raptors (hawks, falcons, owls), and ratites (emus and ostriches), have a high incidence of normal Gram-negative gut flora of many varieties including E. coli.
The distribution of E. coli in psittacines varies one one species to another. It is less common in Amazons and macaws, sometimes found in greys, and common in cockatoos and Eclectus. In fact, E. coli can compose as much as 30 percent of the gut flora of some psittacines and others like cockatiels and budgies carry somewhat less.
Transmission:
The bacteria is shed from an infected bird in the fecal material as well as nasal and or ocular secretions. The organism remains stable outside the host body and may dry as a dusty substance.
This dust contaminates the air in the form of aerosols. These aerosols are then inhaled by another possible host. Susceptibility as well as the amount of contamination determine whether or not the new host becomes infected with the disease. Other forms of transmission include infected hens feeding their young with contaminated crop contents, as well as contaminated feed and drinking water. Vertical transmission (transmission of the bacteria to and egg) can occur, subsequently chicks hatch and spread salmonella by direct contact. The embryo may die if bacteria levels become to high.
The disease has a greater chance of spreading in overcrowded conditions, stale air environments, nest-boxes, and brooders. Pet shops, bird marts, and quarantine stations are also high risk areas.
Symptoms:
Ruffled feathers - diarrhea - listlessness - weakness - shivering - vent picking The severity of the illness can depend on the age of the bird, the virulence of the bacteria, the immune system, stress and the degree of contamination. Affected birds can also become carriers showing no disease symptoms.
These carriers can spread the disease to their offspring and may later become ill as a result of stress. Baby birds, with less developed immune systems, are more susceptible to disease and frequently die. Chronic infections in adult birds may form abscesses, fail to hatch eggs, have changes in eating habits and may intermittently pass contaminating bacteria.
Prevention:
Keep water and feed bowls free of fecal material. Identify carrier birds and properly treat them. Careful disposal of contaminated materials. Minimize Stress in the aviary. People working with contaminated material should practice good hygiene.
Treatment:
Broad spectrum antibiotics should only be started when a sample for culturing has been taken. Oral and injected antibiotics should be given simultaneously in severe cases. The sulfa drugs are good to use orally. Kanamycin and Gentamycin are usually effective by injection. When Gentamycin is used do not allow dehydration. Dehydration may cause toxicity to occur.
If necessary, the antibiotics can be changed after sensitivity results are known.If diarrhea is severe Kaopectate or Pepto Bismal may be given orally with 2 to 3 drops in mouth three times per day. Water consumption should be monitored to prevent dehydration. Maintain a stress free environment.
An incubator or a heating pad under the cage should be used to maintain the temperature between 85 and 90 degrees. Lacking an incubator if the heating pad alone won't maintain the temperature, place the cage in a box and the box on the heating pad with a thermometer in the back of the box in order to monitor temperature.
ANTIBIOTICS:
Kanamycin: Dosage: .01 mgl to one gram of body weight intramuscularly twice daily.
Gentamycin: Dosage: .01 mg to one gram of body weight intramuscularly once daily or 25 mg. to 120 ml of drinking water orally.
Trimethoprim/Sulfamethoxazole Suspension: Dosage .002 ml to one gram of body weight orally twice daily.
Sodium Sulfachiorpridazine Powder: Dosage ¼ tsp to 120 ml drinking water
ANTIDIARRHEALS:
Pepto Bismol: Coats the intestinal tract. Helps to form a firmer stool. Dosage 2-3 drops in the mouth, 3 times daily.
Kaopectate: Daolin and pectin coat the intestinal tract and form a firmer stool. Dosage 3 drops in the mouth 3 times daily.
*Please check with the manufacturer of the specific antibiotic for additional information before treatment is started. Allays consult with your local avian veterinarian for additional information before treating individuals.
Diagnosis:
For best cultures are taken directly from the cloaca rather than from a fecal sample. If the bird dies, intestinal material, liver, blood and spleen can also be cultured.
Anytime E. coli is found in an internal culture other than the gastrointestinal tract, it should be considered pathogenic. E. coli can proliferate uncontrollably outside its normal home in the gut. However, some strains of E. coli can cause gastrointestinal disease. So, even in the gut, the bacterium may be pathogenic.
Sensitivity testing should be performed since enteric bacteria are often resistant to several antibiotics.
Sample:
E. coli is usually detected from a cloacal (vent) culture. It is best to take the culture directly from the cloaca rather than from a fecal sample. A fecal sample may be contaminated by another bird or animal, such as a rodent.
Handling:
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. Samples must be shipped overnight in a transport medium.
Avian Tuberculosis (Mycobacterium avium) PDD Syndrome
Information kindly supplied by www.avianbiotech.co.uk
Description
Mycobacterium (ATB) - Straight or slightly curved, non motile rods, 0.20.6 x 1.0 µm. Although difficult to stain, rods are Gram positive. After staining with basic fuchsin, cells resist decolorization with acidicethanol and are therefore termed acidalcoholfast bacilli (AFB). This characteristic is due to the high level of lipid in mycobacterial cell walls.
There are seventyone validly named species of Mycobacterium and an additional three subspecies The principal pathogens in the genus are M. bovis, M. leprae and M. tuberculosis but, in all, thirtytwo species are known to be pathogenic to humans or animals. Species of Mycobacteria other than those above are often referred to as "atypical mycobacteria".
The most commonly encountered pathogens among the atypical mycobacteria are species of the Mycobacterium avium complex. The M. avium complex (MAC) its considered to contain M. avium, M. avium subspecies paratuberculosis, M. avium subspecies silvaticum and M. intracellulare. However, poorly identified strains which show some similarity to M. avium are also frequently, and incorrectly, allocated to the complex. There are over 20 recognized serotypes within the M. avium complex.
Most birds including parrots, parakeets, cranes, sparrows, starling, emus, waterfowl raptors and softbills, have shown susceptibly to M. avium. It is believed that favorable conditions virtually all species of birds are susceptible to avian tuberculosis. It is most prevalent where there is a high population density, such as in zoos, or collections of birds.
Transmission:
M. avium infections are considered to be "open" meaning infected birds consistently shed large amounts of organism into the environment.
M. avium is transmitted by ingestion and inhalation of aerosolized infectious organisms from feces. Incubation in birds is weeks to years. Oral ingestion of food and water contaminated with feces is the most common method of infection.
Once ingested, the organism spreads throughout the bird's body and is shed in large numbers in the feces. If the bacterium is inhaled, pulmonary lesions may develop. Skin invasion may occur as well. The spread via infected eggs can occur, but it is not common.
The transmission of M. avium from human to human has not been convincingly demonstrated and all infections are thought to be of environmental origin.
Symptoms:
In some cases sudden death can occur in a bird with normal body weight and outer appearance. However, in most cases a bird with TB will develop symptoms such as progressive weight loss in spite of a good appetite, depression, diarrhea, increased thirst, and respiratory difficulty. A decreased in egg production often occurs in birds that were laying eggs. Once the disease appears, it is virtually impossible to eradicate it. Eventual death is the usual outcome
Birds with the intestinal form often present with chronic wasting disease - and Proventricular Dilatation Syndrome is often one of the suspected possible diseases. In addition to weight loss, depression, diarrhea, increased urination (polyuria), abdominal distention, lameness and difficulty in breathing may be present.
Prevention:
Preventing M. avium is best done by minimize stress and overcrowding; Provide proper ventilation; Prevent malnutrition with a proper diet. Controlling an M. avium outbreak in zoos, bird gardens and private aviaries can be especially difficult to eradicate. New additions to the aviary should be quarantined for a minimum of 1-2 months. Testing new additions for M. avium is also a good way to prevent possible outbreaks.
Treatment:
All M. avium isolates that have been tested up to now are totally resistant to the antituberculous drugs currently used in humans ATB is extremely difficult to treat, and in many cases treatment is not considered a viable option.
Diagnosis:
It is difficult and lengthy process to culture the M. avium organism in the lab. An elevated White blood cell count may be present, as well as a low red blood cell count. It is sometimes possible to find bacteria in the feces by staining procedures. This however, is not specific because other acid-fast bacteria that are not M. avium may also be present.
At ABI we use two techniques for testing M. avium. PCR assays which detect the actual disease causing organism, and ELISA assays which detect specific antibodies for M. avium. PCR assays are considered to be the fastest most sensitive method for detecting M. avium while ELISA assays help determine exposure to M. avium.
Sample:
At postmortem, biopsy of the liver, digestive tract, spleen and lungs. Is one of the best ways to diagnose the disease. For general screening whole blood, serum, vent and throat swabs can be used. It is best to submit both blood and swab samples for testing.
Handling:
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. Samples must be shipped overnight in a transport medium or as a dry swab.
Avian Chlamydia
Information kindly supplied by www.avianbiotech.co.uk
Description:
Chlamydia psittaci - also referred to as Psittacosis, Parrot Fever or chlamydiosis. The word Psittacosis comes from the Greek word Psittakos, meaning parrot. Chlamydia are gram negative, spherical, (0.4-0.6 micron diameter), intracellular parasites
that people sometimes referred to as "energy parasites" because they use ATP (a crucial energy containing metabolite) produced by the host cell, hence, the term "energy parasites.
Incubation periods in caged birds vary from days to weeks and longer. Most commonly this period is approximately 3 to 10 days.
Latent infections are common and active disease may occur several years after exposure. The incubation period of this disease is however difficult to assess due to these chronically infected birds that develop persistent, asymptomatic infections.
In birds, C. psittaci may manifest itself as an upper respiratory infection with nasal, and or ocular discharge, diarrhea, or a combination of all three. In some cases, birds may be infected but show no signs. These cases are of concern because these birds may become carriers and shed the organism.
A major concern with C. psittaci is the zoonotic potential of the organism. A zoonotic disease is an infection which can be transmitted from animals to humans. C. psittaci is also one of the major causes of infectious abortion in sheep and cattle.
*C. psittaci is related to Chlamydia trachomatis, the most common human STD, and Chlamydia pneumonia, a cause of human pneumonia.
Transmission:
Transmission of this organism from one host to another is primarily through the air. The bacteria is shed from an infected bird in the nasal and or ocular secretions, fecal material, and feather dust. The organism remains remarkably stable outside the host body and dries as a dusty substance.
This dust or aerosol contaminates the air that is then inhaled by another possible host. Susceptibility as well as the amount of contamination determine whether or not the new host becomes infected with the disease. Vertical transmission through the egg has been shown in domesticated ducks.
The disease has a greater chance of spreading in overcrowded conditions, stale air environments, nest-boxes, and brooders. Pet shops, bird marts, and quarantine stations are also high risk areas.
*Transmission of the Chlamydial organism from birds to humans has been confirmed in a number of cases. Although psittacosis infection in humans is rare it is potentially dangerous for persons who are sick, elderly, immunosuppressed (e.g., HIV patients) or pregnant. These people should consult their doctor for more information concerning Chlamydia psittaci.
Symptoms:
In young birds clinical sings can include rough plumage, low body temperature, tremor, lethargy, conjunctivitis, dyspnea, emaciation, sinusitis, yellow to greenish droppings or grayish watery droppings may also be displayed.
Adult birds may develop symptoms such as tremors, lethargy, ruffled feathers, progressive weight loss, greenish diarrhea, occasional conjunctivitis, and high levels of urates in droppings. Birds infected with Chlamydia may develop one or several of these symptoms as the disease progresses.
Clinical changes associated with a Chlamydia infection include WBC elevated 2-3 times, Hct decreased 25-40%, SGOT elevated at least 2-3 times the normal levels, LDH elevated by at least 20%, and AST elevated by at least 2-3 times the normal limit. Other, more slight changes can occur in blood hematology and chemistry.
*In humans: abrupt onset of fever, chills, headache, loss of appetite, shortness of breath, malaise, myalgia, and conjunctivitis can occur as a result of a Chlamydia infection.
Prevention:
Preventing the organism from entering your facility is the best method of prevention. Test and quarantine all new birds before entering them in your aviary; avoid bird marts and bird fares where the disease can spread. Commonsense hygiene includes the removal of fecal material, and quality air circulation.
Treatment:
Most treatments involve the use of tetracycline and its derivatives such as Vibramycin, Doxycycline, Oxytetracycline. The antibiotic can be given by intravenous or intramuscular injections. Antibiotics can also be given orally or mixed with palatable food.
Treatment periods generally last about 45 days varying slightly depending on the treatment. *Calcium should be withheld because tetracycline binds to calcium. Citric acid in the bird's drinking water can increase the levels of antibiotics in the blood.
*In humans tetracycline and its derivatives are generally an effective treatment for Chlamydia.
Diagnosis:
Fecal analysis, blood analysis, immunoflourescent testing, as well as PCR and nested PCR testing are excellent tool to help determine a Chlamydial infection.
Sample:
When testing individual birds, a whole blood sample is recommended in conjunction with a cloacal and/or throat swab when possible. If the sample tests positive the bird should be placed in quarantine and treatment should be begun immediately.
Postmortem swabs or samples of liver, spleen, or kidney tissue in a sterile container may also be submitted.
Environmental testing using swabs of aviaries, countertops, fans, air-filters, nest-boxes, etc. is extremely effective in determining the presence of Chlamydia psittaci DNA in the environment.
Handling:
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. (refrigerator). Samples must be shipped in a padded envelope or box. Samples may be sent by regular mail, but overnight is recommended.
Avian Polyomavirus
Information kindly supplied by www.avianbiotech.co.uk
Description
Polyomavirus - This virus, also referred to as Budgerigar Fledgling Disease is a member of the papovavirus family. Polyoma virus is a 40-50 nm diameter in size, containing a double-stranded DNA genome of approximately 5000 basepairs.
This pathogen is considered one of the most significant threats to cage birds around the world. This highly infectious disease effects most if not all parrot species. Polyoma seems to be most problematic among neonates (young birds) between the ages 14-56 days.
Young birds often die, while adult birds can develop a certain level of immunity. Polyoma is believed to have an incubation period of approximately two weeks or less.
Transmission
The disease can spread from one bird to another via feather dust, feces, aerosols and parental feeding of chicks; direct contact or contact with infected environments (incubators, nest boxes)..
Birds that are infected but do not have obvious signs of infection are often responsible for spreading the virus to an aviary or bird store.
Carrier state maybe possible in adult birds.
Symptoms
Swollen abdomen, depression, loss of appetite, anorexia, weight loss, delayed crop emptying, regurgitation, diarrhea, dehydration, feather abnormalities hemorrhages under the skin, dyspnea, polyuria, ataxia, tremors, paralysis, acute death.
Some birds die without any clinical symptoms. Adult birds may die of secondary infection from bacterial, viral, fungal or parasitic pathogen.
Prevention
Isolate all birds shedding the disease. Disinfect all contaminated surfaces with an oxidizer such as chlorine bleach (Polyoma virus is resistant to many disinfectants).
*Alcohol does not work as it is not an oxidizer.
A vaccine is available, however this option may cost as much as $40-60 per bird: additionally booster shots are required each year and the effectiveness of the vaccine in younger birds is in question.
Quarantine all new birds and use nested primer PCR testing to determine whether or not birds are infected.
Treatment
No Known treatment at this time
Diagnosis
Nested primer PCR testing, and sequence analysis of PDV DNA; histopathology.
Sample
When testing individual birds, a whole blood sample is recommend in conjunction with a cloacal swab when possible. If the sample tests positive, then the bird should be placed in quarantine and re-tested in 4-6 weeks. If the bird tests negative the second time, then a third test is recommended.
Post mortem samples of liver, spleen, or kidney tissue in a sterile container, postmortem swabs may also be submitted.
Environmental testing using swabs of aviaries, countertops, fans,
air-filters, nest-boxes etc. is extremely effective in determining the presence of Polyoma DNA in the environment.
*It is recommenced to submit both a whole blood and cloacal swab sample for analysis when possible.
Handling
Prior to shipping samples should be stored at 4 C. (refrigerator). Samples must be shipped in a padded envelope or box. Samples may be sent by regular mail, but overnight is recommended.
Limitations
Vaccination of birds using a killed virus or DNA vaccine prior to testing does not affect the accuracy of a PCR test.
Proventricular Dilation Disease PDD
PDD (Proventricular Dilation disease)
PDS (Proventricular Dilation Syndrome)
Psittacine Wasting Disease
Macaw Wasting disease
These are some of the names used for this devastating disease, fortunately its still rare in aviaries, and rarer still in single bird homes.
The incubation period for the spread of this disease between birds is still not clear and reports of between a few months to a few years has been indicated.
Thought to be a virus that attacks the Proventricular, central nervous system and sometimes the intestinal tract, its very difficult to make a 100% diagnosis without exploratory surgery.
It can also be confused with other ailments as symptoms are similar, such as mega bacteria, heavy metal poisoning, E. coli, and Candida to name a few, as said before usually surgery (biopsy) of the Proventriculus is required.
This disease mainly infects psittacines, mostly Greys and Macaws but any psittacine is susceptible, symptoms of PDD is usually commenced with regurgitation/vomiting, a lethargic bird, looks generally unwell and passes whole seed in faeces, rapid weight loss, seizures, diarrhoea, and lack of appetite are also indicative.
Treatment of various types have been tried, but has so far only prolonged the life of the bird for a while with the inevitable happening in the end.
Good bio security must take place in aviaries with extended quarantine periods for new additions to prevent this fatal disease entering the aviary.
Monday, February 15, 2010
Parrot Cage
Parrot Cages
Your Parrot Cages should have enough room for your Bird, Toys, Perches and food cups.
Top Tip
It is good practise to have two or three Perches of different materials and slightly different sizes.
Clean your Parrot Cage regularly, This will stop it smelling and reduce harmful bacterial build up. This will help keep your parrots feet in good condition.
If you know what you want in a African Grey parrot cages, Amazon parrot cages, or even your Blue and Gold Macaw Cages then its not so hard finding the one for you.
The problem comes when you go and visit your local pet store and he has lots of parrot cages on offer, The general consensus is to buy the largest parrot cage you can afford, A Parrots cage is one of the most important investments you can make. The larger the cage, the happier the parrot is.
If you do not know what you are looking for you may take advice from the pet shop owner . If they are in anyway knowledgeable about parrot keeping then they will not let you buy a cage that's totally impractical for the size of parrot you have.
There are many factors to take into account when choosing and buying your Parrot Cage. The bigger the better, but financially you may not be able to afford the cage you would really like.
The best advice I can offer is to really think about things here. If you were to be housed in a cage would you like a small stuffy cage where you had no room to move? I think not. Your feathered friend needs room to move about, exercise and must have room to flap his wings with ease.
If you cannot provide this for your parrot maybe you should re-think to whether you should have a Parrot at all.Your parrot relys on you for everything, please provide for Him/Her with the best living conditions possible.
Another factor is the shape of the cage, It is generally thought that a square or rectangular shape cage is better than a round one. A square cage provides more security for your bird.
A round one will stress your bird , he will always be looking around for potential threats, where as a square cage can be put into a corner or against a wall . This means that one or two sides are protected against a wall, your Parrot will appreciate this.
Because of there size and general and active behaviour Macaws, African Greys especially need lots of room, If they are confined to a small space then they may become unhappy thus may start feather plucking( Self Mutilation).
A Stainless Steel Cage is the preferred material of which a cage should be made of. Some metals contain harmful toxins that should be avoided at all costs.
Be Aware Zinc is deadly to birds.
Always give your new cage a good wash, you don't know what has been used chemically to clean it before hand.
Another factor when buying your parrot cage is to choose a cage with a big opening either or both at the top of the cage and and the front. This opening (Door) wants to be a lot bigger than the bird itself.
This is so the bird won't catch itself on any parts of the door that may harm your bird e.g. sharp edges etc.
Most cages come with a removable grid at the bottom of the cage. Some people choose to remove this and allow there birds to roam free at the bottom of the cage scavenging for tit bits. I personally wouldn't remove it.
Your bird shouldn't be exposed to faeces or any waste food that has dropped to the bottom of the cage. Its un-hygienic for both your bird and you.
The cage above with an open top with give your bird a sense of independence
Parrot Cages come in various shapes and sizes, they also vary in price. Always look around in various pet shops preferably in shops that specialise in birds.
The internet is also a great place to shop for cages, I have found that most items are cheaper to buy from the internet and have personally ordered lots of items from different online birdie shops. A full range of accessories for your cage can also be bought from reputable online outlets.
It may a good idea to look at the product within a pet shop before buying from the internet, you can then see what you are buying for yourselves.
You will also have to invest in perches, which come made in various materials, Concrete, Acrilic, Wooden Dowel, Java wood, Sandy.
It is vital to have at least one good Sandy or Concrete perch within the cage. This helps to keep your Parrots nails and beak in Tip Top condition.
Your Parrot Cages should have enough room for your Bird, Toys, Perches and food cups.
Top Tip
It is good practise to have two or three Perches of different materials and slightly different sizes.
Clean your Parrot Cage regularly, This will stop it smelling and reduce harmful bacterial build up. This will help keep your parrots feet in good condition.
If you know what you want in a African Grey parrot cages, Amazon parrot cages, or even your Blue and Gold Macaw Cages then its not so hard finding the one for you.
The problem comes when you go and visit your local pet store and he has lots of parrot cages on offer, The general consensus is to buy the largest parrot cage you can afford, A Parrots cage is one of the most important investments you can make. The larger the cage, the happier the parrot is.
If you do not know what you are looking for you may take advice from the pet shop owner . If they are in anyway knowledgeable about parrot keeping then they will not let you buy a cage that's totally impractical for the size of parrot you have.
There are many factors to take into account when choosing and buying your Parrot Cage. The bigger the better, but financially you may not be able to afford the cage you would really like.
The best advice I can offer is to really think about things here. If you were to be housed in a cage would you like a small stuffy cage where you had no room to move? I think not. Your feathered friend needs room to move about, exercise and must have room to flap his wings with ease.
If you cannot provide this for your parrot maybe you should re-think to whether you should have a Parrot at all.Your parrot relys on you for everything, please provide for Him/Her with the best living conditions possible.
Another factor is the shape of the cage, It is generally thought that a square or rectangular shape cage is better than a round one. A square cage provides more security for your bird.
A round one will stress your bird , he will always be looking around for potential threats, where as a square cage can be put into a corner or against a wall . This means that one or two sides are protected against a wall, your Parrot will appreciate this.
Because of there size and general and active behaviour Macaws, African Greys especially need lots of room, If they are confined to a small space then they may become unhappy thus may start feather plucking( Self Mutilation).
A Stainless Steel Cage is the preferred material of which a cage should be made of. Some metals contain harmful toxins that should be avoided at all costs.
Be Aware Zinc is deadly to birds.
Always give your new cage a good wash, you don't know what has been used chemically to clean it before hand.
Another factor when buying your parrot cage is to choose a cage with a big opening either or both at the top of the cage and and the front. This opening (Door) wants to be a lot bigger than the bird itself.
This is so the bird won't catch itself on any parts of the door that may harm your bird e.g. sharp edges etc.
Most cages come with a removable grid at the bottom of the cage. Some people choose to remove this and allow there birds to roam free at the bottom of the cage scavenging for tit bits. I personally wouldn't remove it.
Your bird shouldn't be exposed to faeces or any waste food that has dropped to the bottom of the cage. Its un-hygienic for both your bird and you.
The cage above with an open top with give your bird a sense of independence
Parrot Cages come in various shapes and sizes, they also vary in price. Always look around in various pet shops preferably in shops that specialise in birds.
The internet is also a great place to shop for cages, I have found that most items are cheaper to buy from the internet and have personally ordered lots of items from different online birdie shops. A full range of accessories for your cage can also be bought from reputable online outlets.
It may a good idea to look at the product within a pet shop before buying from the internet, you can then see what you are buying for yourselves.
You will also have to invest in perches, which come made in various materials, Concrete, Acrilic, Wooden Dowel, Java wood, Sandy.
It is vital to have at least one good Sandy or Concrete perch within the cage. This helps to keep your Parrots nails and beak in Tip Top condition.
Parrot Play
Parrot Play
Parrots are very intelligent birds, and because of this we should do our upmost on a daily basis to give our parrots some fun and enjoyment either in or out of the cage enviroment.
Providing your parrot with a range of safe toys to play with and items to chew on will much increase your parrots happiness and encourage you as a parrot owner to interact with your parrot reguarly. This has its benefits to both you as owner being able to interact with you feathered friend and for the parrot help promote a healthy, playfull, happy bird. Without parrot play there is a good chance your parrot could become bored and perhaps this could bring the onset of Feather Plucking.
Below are a few links to individual Parrot Play topics.
Parrot Homemade Toys
Parrot Rope Toys
Parrot Wooden Toys
Climbing Accessories
Parrot Playstands
Parrot Homemade Toys
Home made toys are cheep, easy to make and easily replaced. Make sure there are no small parts that can be chewed off and ingested, and no clips, loose strings, or other parts in which your bird could get its beak, feet, or head trapped.
Safe toys include wood, sisal, leather, acrylic, and rawhide toys (including hanging toys as long as they are not long enough to strangle your bird), bells, and ladders.
As well, household items such as the cardboard tubes from paper towel rolls, paper cups, ink-free cardboard, and dried pasta shapes may also be used. Parrots are very active and playful so it is a good idea to have lots of toys on hand to rotate through the cage to keep them occupied. All toys including their hanging devices should be zinc and lead free.
Parrot Rope Toys
Parrots love to climb and swing. Ropes are good to use but home made ones may be best used only under supervision since threads can come loose and entangle birds easily.
Parrot Wooden Toys
All caged pets need to have something to play with and chew on to help relieve stress and boredom. Natural untreated woods are best. Your pet needs a variety of toys to stay active.
Daily toys help keep pets physically active and help satisfy the natural chewing instinct.
A wide variety of wooden toys or plain untreated chunks of wood to chew on should be provided. Toys meant to be taken apart to get at a treat are also a good choice, as are hanging toys and toys to climb on as long as they are safe.
Toys should be provided to keep your inquisitive bird occupied. Toys can be expensive, as they need to be made of durable materials so think about the toys and their function. The best toys are made of a variety of materials, which will give the bird different textures to explore. Toys that get the parrot thinking and working are also good such as those, which reward the bird after carrying out a task.
Parrot toys can be scary for your bird so are best introduced by leaving the toy several yards in visual sight of your bird until they become accustomed it.
Climbing Accessories
Parrots are very intelligent animals who should be given plenty to keep them busy. Even in the cage or aviary, Ladders are a good toy as they help to give them some exercise by climbing.
Parrot Playstands
Bird perches and stands act like a bird gym and give your pet plenty of exercise and climbing room. They come in many shapes, sizes, designs and different materials so are very much a personal choice by the individual.
You can even have them custom made, floor or table standing. You can add a variety of toys onto them for climbing, swinging and enjoying.
Parrots are very intelligent birds, and because of this we should do our upmost on a daily basis to give our parrots some fun and enjoyment either in or out of the cage enviroment.
Providing your parrot with a range of safe toys to play with and items to chew on will much increase your parrots happiness and encourage you as a parrot owner to interact with your parrot reguarly. This has its benefits to both you as owner being able to interact with you feathered friend and for the parrot help promote a healthy, playfull, happy bird. Without parrot play there is a good chance your parrot could become bored and perhaps this could bring the onset of Feather Plucking.
Below are a few links to individual Parrot Play topics.
Parrot Homemade Toys
Parrot Rope Toys
Parrot Wooden Toys
Climbing Accessories
Parrot Playstands
Parrot Homemade Toys
Home made toys are cheep, easy to make and easily replaced. Make sure there are no small parts that can be chewed off and ingested, and no clips, loose strings, or other parts in which your bird could get its beak, feet, or head trapped.
Safe toys include wood, sisal, leather, acrylic, and rawhide toys (including hanging toys as long as they are not long enough to strangle your bird), bells, and ladders.
As well, household items such as the cardboard tubes from paper towel rolls, paper cups, ink-free cardboard, and dried pasta shapes may also be used. Parrots are very active and playful so it is a good idea to have lots of toys on hand to rotate through the cage to keep them occupied. All toys including their hanging devices should be zinc and lead free.
Parrot Rope Toys
Parrots love to climb and swing. Ropes are good to use but home made ones may be best used only under supervision since threads can come loose and entangle birds easily.
Parrot Wooden Toys
All caged pets need to have something to play with and chew on to help relieve stress and boredom. Natural untreated woods are best. Your pet needs a variety of toys to stay active.
Daily toys help keep pets physically active and help satisfy the natural chewing instinct.
A wide variety of wooden toys or plain untreated chunks of wood to chew on should be provided. Toys meant to be taken apart to get at a treat are also a good choice, as are hanging toys and toys to climb on as long as they are safe.
Toys should be provided to keep your inquisitive bird occupied. Toys can be expensive, as they need to be made of durable materials so think about the toys and their function. The best toys are made of a variety of materials, which will give the bird different textures to explore. Toys that get the parrot thinking and working are also good such as those, which reward the bird after carrying out a task.
Parrot toys can be scary for your bird so are best introduced by leaving the toy several yards in visual sight of your bird until they become accustomed it.
Climbing Accessories
Parrots are very intelligent animals who should be given plenty to keep them busy. Even in the cage or aviary, Ladders are a good toy as they help to give them some exercise by climbing.
Parrot Playstands
Bird perches and stands act like a bird gym and give your pet plenty of exercise and climbing room. They come in many shapes, sizes, designs and different materials so are very much a personal choice by the individual.
You can even have them custom made, floor or table standing. You can add a variety of toys onto them for climbing, swinging and enjoying.
Parrot Personality
Parrot Personality
There are so many Parrot species that are kept in our homes as pets, so finding the one that will suit your home is not easy. Each Parrot has a personality of its own but some behaviours are specific to certain breeds. Below we have compiled some Parrot personality profiles from real Parrot owners from around the world for you to look at.
The list is long but do take time and read these parrot
personality profiles, they are interesting reading and if you are a new parrot owner or would like to know more about other species then this may help.
Thankyou to everyone who contributed.
African Grey / Timneh
African Grey is the most wonderful bird, She will whistle mostly in the mornings and again in the afternoon, Not too noisy, Can be very dusty at times and needs a shower or bath very often.
Be prepared for lots of mess. Interacts with other birds on her own terms, can be a biter if not trained and looked after properly. My Grey does not feather pluck but have heard Greys can get bored easily so need lots of fun things to occupy them throughout the day.She is gentle mostly with a loving outlook, Yes she has mood swings just like a child so reasonably high maintenance."
African Grey does not like being handled; but will let you kiss her and tickle her she will growl at people that she doesn't know if they get to close to her ; she is her own boss doing things on her terms only ; she makes you laugh with all her funny noises that she has picked up ; have to say she causes a great amount of dust ; not long before everything around her is covered in a white powder ; she loves being out of her cage pulling her rope swing to pieces ; she isn't very noisy but she makes herself known to being around with her lovely whistels ; she is a lovely sweet gentle parrot.
Amazon
Amazon Harley is a complete clown. He loves nothing more than being talked to and making you laugh (he even laughs back!) I have had him since he was 10 weeks, and can stroke him all over, kiss his head, turn him on his back and he is so loving. He whistles in the morning and evening and doesn't make too much noise, but please note, this is unusual for an amazon! They can be rather loud! He loves having bath's he lets us know by saying "wanna bathhh!"
Then he gets sprayed. These birds are so inteligent and need a lot of stimulation so they dont get bored and start screaming or plucking. His cage is changed weekly to prevent him getting bored and he has many natrual foraging toys; which he loves! He is hormonal at times although after a while you can tell when they are in "a mood" He loves me, my mum and dad. But is weary my sister and strangers, needs time to get to know them. Although i have been told amazon's can become one person bird's; he isn't.
He talks all the time and is very clear and can be understood by most people. He sings "how much is that doggy in the window", he answers the phone and sings eastender and coronation street (parents fault!) He is my baby and i love him to bits even when he's in a mood! Wouldn't swap him for the world."
Michelle Veitch
Cockatiel
Cockatiel is getting on a bit now, his personality is however great. He will whistle his tunes that he has learnt over the years when he feels like it mainly in the morning and again in the afternoon. Spends alot of time asleep now.
Whe younger he had a partner called 'Bonnie' and bred a couple of times. He was obviously happier then but now he is on his own spends most of his time looking in the mirror. Obviously he misses her and thinks the image is her. Very nice personality all round and thouroughly reccomend a cockatiel as a begginer parrot.
Don't expect any bird to talk, each is an individual but it has been known for cockatiel to learn a few words.'Clyde' has spoken a few words in the past and still tries occasionally. He eats a sead diet, has many perches in a medium sized cage with toys, cuttlebone, and mineral blocks. Does not like to interact with my African Grey but seems inquisative at times. A Low maintenance small parrot ideal as a family parrot. As with all parrots needs interaction to bring the best out of them.
Macaws
My Blue and Gold Macaw likes nothing better than sitting on my hand; if i am not paying him attention he will give a bite just to remind me of that; and when he has all my attention he will try to give me a kiss or his food; he can be very noisy at times and likes alot of attention; he is not to keen on people that he does not know and will display his wings big time and would bite them given the chance; he is also very messy as he loves chucking all his seed out of the bowl until he finds his favourite food; he is on the whole a very boistrous parrot and likes to think he can rule the roost; but inside of all of that he is just a big baby at heart.
Meyers Parrot
Small bird HUGE personality. Into everything, not scared of anything, very sociable with both my partner and me, a little acrobat, likes his tickles, and likes to be held on his back whilst playing or being tickled. Intelligent for his size - he figured out how to get out of his first cage within a week, but that may be the individual bird, not the species. Flies extremely fast when out of the cage - lots of swooping and diving - and is adept at nipping through slightly open doors. He mimics words, whistles, beeps and my other birds noises. He's not too loud, although the occassional tweet can be high pitched and make ears ring.
He can be destructive if not kept an eye on - wallpaper, laptop keys, picture frames etc. and I haven't been able to poop train him. He went through a nippy stage, but as he's now coming up to the age of 2 I'm hoping thats over. He tolerates birds of other species (a cocktiel and GMR) flying around the room with him, and shows no ill effects when the humans of the household work away all day.
There are so many Parrot species that are kept in our homes as pets, so finding the one that will suit your home is not easy. Each Parrot has a personality of its own but some behaviours are specific to certain breeds. Below we have compiled some Parrot personality profiles from real Parrot owners from around the world for you to look at.
The list is long but do take time and read these parrot
personality profiles, they are interesting reading and if you are a new parrot owner or would like to know more about other species then this may help.
Thankyou to everyone who contributed.
African Grey / Timneh
African Grey is the most wonderful bird, She will whistle mostly in the mornings and again in the afternoon, Not too noisy, Can be very dusty at times and needs a shower or bath very often.
Be prepared for lots of mess. Interacts with other birds on her own terms, can be a biter if not trained and looked after properly. My Grey does not feather pluck but have heard Greys can get bored easily so need lots of fun things to occupy them throughout the day.She is gentle mostly with a loving outlook, Yes she has mood swings just like a child so reasonably high maintenance."
African Grey does not like being handled; but will let you kiss her and tickle her she will growl at people that she doesn't know if they get to close to her ; she is her own boss doing things on her terms only ; she makes you laugh with all her funny noises that she has picked up ; have to say she causes a great amount of dust ; not long before everything around her is covered in a white powder ; she loves being out of her cage pulling her rope swing to pieces ; she isn't very noisy but she makes herself known to being around with her lovely whistels ; she is a lovely sweet gentle parrot.
Amazon
Amazon Harley is a complete clown. He loves nothing more than being talked to and making you laugh (he even laughs back!) I have had him since he was 10 weeks, and can stroke him all over, kiss his head, turn him on his back and he is so loving. He whistles in the morning and evening and doesn't make too much noise, but please note, this is unusual for an amazon! They can be rather loud! He loves having bath's he lets us know by saying "wanna bathhh!"
Then he gets sprayed. These birds are so inteligent and need a lot of stimulation so they dont get bored and start screaming or plucking. His cage is changed weekly to prevent him getting bored and he has many natrual foraging toys; which he loves! He is hormonal at times although after a while you can tell when they are in "a mood" He loves me, my mum and dad. But is weary my sister and strangers, needs time to get to know them. Although i have been told amazon's can become one person bird's; he isn't.
He talks all the time and is very clear and can be understood by most people. He sings "how much is that doggy in the window", he answers the phone and sings eastender and coronation street (parents fault!) He is my baby and i love him to bits even when he's in a mood! Wouldn't swap him for the world."
Michelle Veitch
Cockatiel
Cockatiel is getting on a bit now, his personality is however great. He will whistle his tunes that he has learnt over the years when he feels like it mainly in the morning and again in the afternoon. Spends alot of time asleep now.
Whe younger he had a partner called 'Bonnie' and bred a couple of times. He was obviously happier then but now he is on his own spends most of his time looking in the mirror. Obviously he misses her and thinks the image is her. Very nice personality all round and thouroughly reccomend a cockatiel as a begginer parrot.
Don't expect any bird to talk, each is an individual but it has been known for cockatiel to learn a few words.'Clyde' has spoken a few words in the past and still tries occasionally. He eats a sead diet, has many perches in a medium sized cage with toys, cuttlebone, and mineral blocks. Does not like to interact with my African Grey but seems inquisative at times. A Low maintenance small parrot ideal as a family parrot. As with all parrots needs interaction to bring the best out of them.
Macaws
My Blue and Gold Macaw likes nothing better than sitting on my hand; if i am not paying him attention he will give a bite just to remind me of that; and when he has all my attention he will try to give me a kiss or his food; he can be very noisy at times and likes alot of attention; he is not to keen on people that he does not know and will display his wings big time and would bite them given the chance; he is also very messy as he loves chucking all his seed out of the bowl until he finds his favourite food; he is on the whole a very boistrous parrot and likes to think he can rule the roost; but inside of all of that he is just a big baby at heart.
Meyers Parrot
Small bird HUGE personality. Into everything, not scared of anything, very sociable with both my partner and me, a little acrobat, likes his tickles, and likes to be held on his back whilst playing or being tickled. Intelligent for his size - he figured out how to get out of his first cage within a week, but that may be the individual bird, not the species. Flies extremely fast when out of the cage - lots of swooping and diving - and is adept at nipping through slightly open doors. He mimics words, whistles, beeps and my other birds noises. He's not too loud, although the occassional tweet can be high pitched and make ears ring.
He can be destructive if not kept an eye on - wallpaper, laptop keys, picture frames etc. and I haven't been able to poop train him. He went through a nippy stage, but as he's now coming up to the age of 2 I'm hoping thats over. He tolerates birds of other species (a cocktiel and GMR) flying around the room with him, and shows no ill effects when the humans of the household work away all day.
Step Down Training
Step Up Step Down Training
The Step up and Step down Training is probably the most important part of any Parrots training and all owners should consider doing this as part of homing a new bird.
Step up and down training will benefit both you and your bird in the long run. You will need to keep to a strict regime and be quite strict with your routine.
Of course if your bird already attempts to step and down this will make the training all the easier. I have found that new born hand reared parrots are the easiest to train.
While flying birds may be allowed to land on your shoulder, you should not allow the bird to remain there but tell it to step on to your hand, and carry it around on your hand not your shoulder. Most shoulder birds will reject training, bite their owner and/or be lost as the owner forgets about the bird and walks outdoors with the bird on the shoulder. The bird then flies away.
You should always appear calm and confident throughout any training sessions. This is the key to the bird learning new things from you.
Lesson One
If the cage is portable you can take this, with the bird in it, to the training room and let the bird out. Otherwise you may need to remove the bird from its cage using a towel to catch it in if it is inclined to bit. It is vital that the bird¹s cage is removed from the training room before any training is started. A small spare bedroom makes a good training room. However you must remove anything that the bird may perch on that is hither than your chest height, such as pictures, ornaments and tall furniture.
You will need a chair in the room for the bird to perch on and the floor should be carpeted. All perching places should be lower than human chest height, so that YOU always LOOK DOWN ON the bird. Birds should not have free access to your shoulder. Flying birds can land there but must be taken down immediately with the "Step up" command.
On no account should any bird be allowed to walk up your arm on to your shoulder. This is simply the bird¹s challenge to your position. You will not be able to train birds which treat you as an inferior. Ío once in the training room, open the cage door and take the bird out or wait until it comes out, then remove the cage from the room.
The first command is "Step up" which tells the bird to get on to your finger or hand. Put your finger or hand very close to the bird¹s lower belly, gently touching it there and say "Step up." The bird may refuse to step up, or fly to another perch or bite. If it refuses, repeat the command, pushing the bird gently on its lower belly. If it bites, try to show NO REACTION to this and repeat the command immediately.
If the bird goes to the floor, wait a few moments so it is calm, then approach it, place your hand so that you are almost touching it in the same place and repeat the command.
If you react to being bitten, this will only stimulate the bird to bite again. The bird has no defence against a person who remains calm and unflustered. Usually after three or four attempts at Step up the bird will step up on to your hand.
When it does, it is vital that you praise the bird enthusiastically. Your TONE of voice is more important than what you actually say. Don¹t let it stay on you for more than a few seconds. Then say "Go Down" and return the bird to the chair back.
Every time the bird obeys a command, you must reward him with something you know it really likes. This can be verbal praise, having a head scratch or even a small food treat.
Training should not last more than five minutes can be done twice a day, each day, until the bird is good with taking the commands.
For the first three or four days keep your bird in its cage except for the lessons. When the bird is stepping on and off your hand easily, move on to the next lesson.
The first command is "Step up" which tells the bird to get on to your finger or hand. Put your finger or hand very close to the bird¹s lower belly, gently touching it there and say "Step up."
The bird may refuse to step up, or fly to another perch or bite. If it refuses, repeat the command, pushing the bird gently on its lower belly. If it bites, try to show NO REACTION to this and repeat the command immediately.
If the bird goes to the floor, wait a few moments so it is calm, then approach it, place your hand so that you are almost touching it in the same place and repeat the command.
If you react to being bitten, this will only stimulate the bird to bite again. The bird has no defence against a person who remains calm and unflustered. Usually after three or four attempts at Step up the bird will step up on to your hand.
When it does, it is vital that you praise the bird enthusiastically. Your TONE of voice is more important than what you actually say. Don¹t let it stay on you for more than a few seconds. Then say "Go Down" and return the bird to the chair back.
Every time the bird obeys a command, you must reward him with something you know it really likes. This can be verbal praise, having a head scratch or even a small food treat.
Training should not last more than five minutes can be done twice a day, each day, until the bird is good with taking the commands.
For the first three or four days keep your bird in its cage except for the lessons. When the bird is stepping on and off your hand easily, move on to the next lesson.
Lesson Two
This is the same as lesson one, in the same room, except that there should be two chairs in the room. Tell the bird "Step up" on to your finger/hand, then transfer it from one chair to another.
Then when this is established without difficulty, transfer it from the chair, or to the windowsill. All these transfers should be from one piece of furniture to another, in the training room, always to furniture which is lower than your chest. It will help the bird if you touch any new place you are asking the bird to go down on to with your other free hand first, then say "Go down or Step down".
The Step up and Step down Training is probably the most important part of any Parrots training and all owners should consider doing this as part of homing a new bird.
Step up and down training will benefit both you and your bird in the long run. You will need to keep to a strict regime and be quite strict with your routine.
Of course if your bird already attempts to step and down this will make the training all the easier. I have found that new born hand reared parrots are the easiest to train.
While flying birds may be allowed to land on your shoulder, you should not allow the bird to remain there but tell it to step on to your hand, and carry it around on your hand not your shoulder. Most shoulder birds will reject training, bite their owner and/or be lost as the owner forgets about the bird and walks outdoors with the bird on the shoulder. The bird then flies away.
You should always appear calm and confident throughout any training sessions. This is the key to the bird learning new things from you.
Lesson One
If the cage is portable you can take this, with the bird in it, to the training room and let the bird out. Otherwise you may need to remove the bird from its cage using a towel to catch it in if it is inclined to bit. It is vital that the bird¹s cage is removed from the training room before any training is started. A small spare bedroom makes a good training room. However you must remove anything that the bird may perch on that is hither than your chest height, such as pictures, ornaments and tall furniture.
You will need a chair in the room for the bird to perch on and the floor should be carpeted. All perching places should be lower than human chest height, so that YOU always LOOK DOWN ON the bird. Birds should not have free access to your shoulder. Flying birds can land there but must be taken down immediately with the "Step up" command.
On no account should any bird be allowed to walk up your arm on to your shoulder. This is simply the bird¹s challenge to your position. You will not be able to train birds which treat you as an inferior. Ío once in the training room, open the cage door and take the bird out or wait until it comes out, then remove the cage from the room.
The first command is "Step up" which tells the bird to get on to your finger or hand. Put your finger or hand very close to the bird¹s lower belly, gently touching it there and say "Step up." The bird may refuse to step up, or fly to another perch or bite. If it refuses, repeat the command, pushing the bird gently on its lower belly. If it bites, try to show NO REACTION to this and repeat the command immediately.
If the bird goes to the floor, wait a few moments so it is calm, then approach it, place your hand so that you are almost touching it in the same place and repeat the command.
If you react to being bitten, this will only stimulate the bird to bite again. The bird has no defence against a person who remains calm and unflustered. Usually after three or four attempts at Step up the bird will step up on to your hand.
When it does, it is vital that you praise the bird enthusiastically. Your TONE of voice is more important than what you actually say. Don¹t let it stay on you for more than a few seconds. Then say "Go Down" and return the bird to the chair back.
Every time the bird obeys a command, you must reward him with something you know it really likes. This can be verbal praise, having a head scratch or even a small food treat.
Training should not last more than five minutes can be done twice a day, each day, until the bird is good with taking the commands.
For the first three or four days keep your bird in its cage except for the lessons. When the bird is stepping on and off your hand easily, move on to the next lesson.
The first command is "Step up" which tells the bird to get on to your finger or hand. Put your finger or hand very close to the bird¹s lower belly, gently touching it there and say "Step up."
The bird may refuse to step up, or fly to another perch or bite. If it refuses, repeat the command, pushing the bird gently on its lower belly. If it bites, try to show NO REACTION to this and repeat the command immediately.
If the bird goes to the floor, wait a few moments so it is calm, then approach it, place your hand so that you are almost touching it in the same place and repeat the command.
If you react to being bitten, this will only stimulate the bird to bite again. The bird has no defence against a person who remains calm and unflustered. Usually after three or four attempts at Step up the bird will step up on to your hand.
When it does, it is vital that you praise the bird enthusiastically. Your TONE of voice is more important than what you actually say. Don¹t let it stay on you for more than a few seconds. Then say "Go Down" and return the bird to the chair back.
Every time the bird obeys a command, you must reward him with something you know it really likes. This can be verbal praise, having a head scratch or even a small food treat.
Training should not last more than five minutes can be done twice a day, each day, until the bird is good with taking the commands.
For the first three or four days keep your bird in its cage except for the lessons. When the bird is stepping on and off your hand easily, move on to the next lesson.
Lesson Two
This is the same as lesson one, in the same room, except that there should be two chairs in the room. Tell the bird "Step up" on to your finger/hand, then transfer it from one chair to another.
Then when this is established without difficulty, transfer it from the chair, or to the windowsill. All these transfers should be from one piece of furniture to another, in the training room, always to furniture which is lower than your chest. It will help the bird if you touch any new place you are asking the bird to go down on to with your other free hand first, then say "Go down or Step down".
Parrot Training
Parrot Training
Parrot Training is vital when you want to have a good relationship with your Parrot. Training your Parrot will endorse respect and will create fun times.From training your bird to do Poops on command, to teaching him or her to Step Up and Down on Command, Stop biting and tricks you can teach your feathered friend.
Parrot Training is vital when you want to have a good relationship with your Parrot. Training your Parrot will endorse respect and will create fun times.From training your bird to do Poops on command, to teaching him or her to Step Up and Down on Command, Stop biting and tricks you can teach your feathered friend.
Parrot Diet And Nutrition
A Healthy Diet for your Parrot
Parrots are no different to any other creature; for them to thrive, they need to eat a good, healthy, yet varied diet. If your parrot lives in-doors, then variety is even more important.
People's opinions on what should or should not be eaten, varies as much as the food itself. This article is to give you an idea of what they should be eating on a regular basis and why, it will also be written in layman's terms, so as to be understood by all, and not just nutrition experts and vets. The article is not just based on findings from one or two pet parrots, it is based on information on 100's of parrots that have been in both the sanctuary and pet environments.
There is also inclusions from Mr. Alan Jones, one of the UK's leading veterinary surgeons, with a special interest in aviculture, when quoting Mr Jones, (AKJ) will be shown.
Your parrot does not have to eat everything that's is shown, (availability will dictate this) however the more varied the diet, the better they will absorb the different minerals and vitamins needed along with adding natural stimulus to their daily routine.
First of all it is wise to take on board just what a parrot needs and why?
Parrots like most flying creatures burn up calories very quickly, their metabolism works at high speed so therefore they need foods that will give them the energy, as and when it is needed. Carbohydrates must therefore be available in high quantities as they convert to energy very easily.
Parrots are often fed human leftovers, to which they rarely refuse. Why? Well they do need quite similar vitamins as humans do, and in my experience parrots will eat anything and everything.
They do however seem to have the ability to know what they are lacking, and if offered it, will tend to eat more of the food that contains essential vitamins that are deficient in the parrot.
Much the same as pregnant women with their crazy cravings, they're not that crazy when you analyse why they want them. My wife ate liver for the first time in 25 years while pregnant with our second child, on visiting the doctors they found she was iron deficient and the cravings were trying to replenish the needs.
So given the variety and feeding at the correct times will give your birds the choice. I know a lot of people will be saying "I can't get my bird to eat anything other than sunflower seeds" or something similar.
This is where feeding regimes come into it, believe me, your parrot will be eating all sorts of foods very quickly, if it is fed at the correct times. A little tip here, Parrots in the wild never get the option of cold foods.
Why? Because where they live it's always very warm and humid, so the food, be it vegetable matter or meat never has chance to cool down.
Therefore when trying to get new food into your bird, try warming it for a few seconds in the microwave, you'll be amazed at how many will eat it almost instantly. (Make sure you leave it for a few moments before offering it, to make sure it has stopped cooking).
Don't worry about just how much it eats, it may throw the food away the first time it is offered or it may just take a small bite, keep on offering it and it will soon take as much as it needs.
I am not going to go into what vitamins and minerals they need here, that will be covered in more detail in its own section on the site. However I will say why they need certain foods and how they will benefit from them.
Feather growth, although we take it for granted, is a big strain on a parrot's body and if they do not take in the correct nutrients to assist the growth then the bird may suffer severe induced stress, which can lead to all kinds of problems.Amino acid deficiency - methionine and lysine particularly, but many other amino acids- are required to manufacture the protein necessary for feather growth. Large quantities will be needed when the bird is moulting.
Vegetable protein as a source of these amino acids is not so efficient as animal protein, therefore adding cheese, cooked egg, chicken or fish to the diet will be helpful, (AKJ).
When do you feed your parrot? After doing quite extensive research in this area, the results are based on watching parrots in a pet situation living in a house, and parrots living in a semi-natural lifestyle in a colony system outside.
Pet parrots have a food bowl offered to them in the morning, in the same bowl, at the same location and it is left there all day, with a few titbits offered now and then. This is no good for neither your parrot nor your pocket, as you will find yourself throwing just as much good food away each day as what the parrots actually eats.
Why? Due to only giving the parrot one meal a day, we tend to give them a nice big dish full of mixed parrot seed or pellets, whichever you use, the parrots then tend to become very selective and picky, trashing what they don't need, and eating only what they want.
The fact that there is always plenty of unopened seeds and uneaten food means that you must be giving far more food than is necessary, so he can pick out what he wants and leave the rest.
Parrots in the wild and in colony aviaries will fill their crops to bursting point in the morning, which will then slowly release into their system, throughout the day. On an evening they will go and do the same, taking them through the night. You will be amazed at how much food it takes to fill the crop, of say, an African Grey, definitely not the bucket full most owners give their birds.
In fact the amount of a good quality parrot mix offered, should be approx 30/35g or a level serving-spoon. It is up to you what is fed in what order, but we feed the seed mix with a little fruit and veg in the morning and the animal matter with fruit and veg in the evening. We never have any waste and all the birds are of good weight, the birds inside weigh only a fraction more than the birds outside.
The main percentage of the diet should consist of mixed fruit and vegetables with some form of animal protein; the remaining part can be of a good mixed Parrot Food or a pelleted mix. When feeding fruit and veg, just think a little about what your parrot has to do to eat it.
If it is all cut up into little chunks- that looks lovely to us- this is not very stimulating to your bird. Give it a full apple or a full carrot, hang it on a string, make life a little more interesting and make the bird work for his dinner. This all adds up to your parrot having to think a little more about what it's doing and therefore fills in a little more of his day. It may sound simple but this kind of food activity can keep your parrot sane.
When feeding parrot mix, choose one that has a good variety of seeds in it and not a cheap mix that is 75% sunflower, also make sure it has a good variety of dried fruit and vegetables. If using pelleted diets make sure your bird has free access to fresh water, in tests we have noticed a considerable increase in water consumption.
If at all possible move the feeding pots to different locations of the cage each day, forget about the "move anything in his cage and he will freak". This is because he has been spoilt and has got himself into a rut. Don't worry about this, just move things about only moderately initially, then once he is used to little movement then make it more radical.
So now for a long list of foods that he can and should be eating on a regular basis. Don't worry about when and what, just try to make sure he is offered something from each list each day. Also take into consideration that, no matter how good and varied you food variety is, many vitamins and minerals only work effectively when the bird has some exposure to natural sunlight (not through glass etc.) D3 is a very important vehicle for say, calcium, without which calcium will not be absorbed at the correct rate. Therefore try to make it possible in nice weather to allow your bird to have at least 30 minutes sunshine each day, this will do him the world of good.
When feeding grown food, such as nuts, please make sure they are prepared for human consumption, as some nuts that are grown wild will have a toxic quality and can kill your parrot. Nuts should only be fed in very small quantities.
Seed mix or Pelleted diet + an average feeding pot of some of the following.
Vegetables Fruit Animal Protein
Broccolli Apple Cheese
Carrot Banana Chicken Bone (Ckd)
Cellery Plum Harded Boiled Egg
Potato (Cooked) Melon Fish
Turnip Apricot
Sweetcorn Pomegranate Nuts in small Quantities
Beans/Peas Grapes Peanuts
Swede Orange Hazlenuts
Sweet Potato Mango Brazil Nuts
Cabbage Leaves Peach
As you can see, there are many types of food to keep your parrot not only well nourished but also occupied in keeping himself fed.
There are however some dangers lurking around in food so please take note of these following items which should never be offered as they can cause severe problems and even death.
Avocado Pear
Chocolate
Tea
Coffee
Salt
Alcohol
Uncooked Potato
Parrots are no different to any other creature; for them to thrive, they need to eat a good, healthy, yet varied diet. If your parrot lives in-doors, then variety is even more important.
People's opinions on what should or should not be eaten, varies as much as the food itself. This article is to give you an idea of what they should be eating on a regular basis and why, it will also be written in layman's terms, so as to be understood by all, and not just nutrition experts and vets. The article is not just based on findings from one or two pet parrots, it is based on information on 100's of parrots that have been in both the sanctuary and pet environments.
There is also inclusions from Mr. Alan Jones, one of the UK's leading veterinary surgeons, with a special interest in aviculture, when quoting Mr Jones, (AKJ) will be shown.
Your parrot does not have to eat everything that's is shown, (availability will dictate this) however the more varied the diet, the better they will absorb the different minerals and vitamins needed along with adding natural stimulus to their daily routine.
First of all it is wise to take on board just what a parrot needs and why?
Parrots like most flying creatures burn up calories very quickly, their metabolism works at high speed so therefore they need foods that will give them the energy, as and when it is needed. Carbohydrates must therefore be available in high quantities as they convert to energy very easily.
Parrots are often fed human leftovers, to which they rarely refuse. Why? Well they do need quite similar vitamins as humans do, and in my experience parrots will eat anything and everything.
They do however seem to have the ability to know what they are lacking, and if offered it, will tend to eat more of the food that contains essential vitamins that are deficient in the parrot.
Much the same as pregnant women with their crazy cravings, they're not that crazy when you analyse why they want them. My wife ate liver for the first time in 25 years while pregnant with our second child, on visiting the doctors they found she was iron deficient and the cravings were trying to replenish the needs.
So given the variety and feeding at the correct times will give your birds the choice. I know a lot of people will be saying "I can't get my bird to eat anything other than sunflower seeds" or something similar.
This is where feeding regimes come into it, believe me, your parrot will be eating all sorts of foods very quickly, if it is fed at the correct times. A little tip here, Parrots in the wild never get the option of cold foods.
Why? Because where they live it's always very warm and humid, so the food, be it vegetable matter or meat never has chance to cool down.
Therefore when trying to get new food into your bird, try warming it for a few seconds in the microwave, you'll be amazed at how many will eat it almost instantly. (Make sure you leave it for a few moments before offering it, to make sure it has stopped cooking).
Don't worry about just how much it eats, it may throw the food away the first time it is offered or it may just take a small bite, keep on offering it and it will soon take as much as it needs.
I am not going to go into what vitamins and minerals they need here, that will be covered in more detail in its own section on the site. However I will say why they need certain foods and how they will benefit from them.
Feather growth, although we take it for granted, is a big strain on a parrot's body and if they do not take in the correct nutrients to assist the growth then the bird may suffer severe induced stress, which can lead to all kinds of problems.Amino acid deficiency - methionine and lysine particularly, but many other amino acids- are required to manufacture the protein necessary for feather growth. Large quantities will be needed when the bird is moulting.
Vegetable protein as a source of these amino acids is not so efficient as animal protein, therefore adding cheese, cooked egg, chicken or fish to the diet will be helpful, (AKJ).
When do you feed your parrot? After doing quite extensive research in this area, the results are based on watching parrots in a pet situation living in a house, and parrots living in a semi-natural lifestyle in a colony system outside.
Pet parrots have a food bowl offered to them in the morning, in the same bowl, at the same location and it is left there all day, with a few titbits offered now and then. This is no good for neither your parrot nor your pocket, as you will find yourself throwing just as much good food away each day as what the parrots actually eats.
Why? Due to only giving the parrot one meal a day, we tend to give them a nice big dish full of mixed parrot seed or pellets, whichever you use, the parrots then tend to become very selective and picky, trashing what they don't need, and eating only what they want.
The fact that there is always plenty of unopened seeds and uneaten food means that you must be giving far more food than is necessary, so he can pick out what he wants and leave the rest.
Parrots in the wild and in colony aviaries will fill their crops to bursting point in the morning, which will then slowly release into their system, throughout the day. On an evening they will go and do the same, taking them through the night. You will be amazed at how much food it takes to fill the crop, of say, an African Grey, definitely not the bucket full most owners give their birds.
In fact the amount of a good quality parrot mix offered, should be approx 30/35g or a level serving-spoon. It is up to you what is fed in what order, but we feed the seed mix with a little fruit and veg in the morning and the animal matter with fruit and veg in the evening. We never have any waste and all the birds are of good weight, the birds inside weigh only a fraction more than the birds outside.
The main percentage of the diet should consist of mixed fruit and vegetables with some form of animal protein; the remaining part can be of a good mixed Parrot Food or a pelleted mix. When feeding fruit and veg, just think a little about what your parrot has to do to eat it.
If it is all cut up into little chunks- that looks lovely to us- this is not very stimulating to your bird. Give it a full apple or a full carrot, hang it on a string, make life a little more interesting and make the bird work for his dinner. This all adds up to your parrot having to think a little more about what it's doing and therefore fills in a little more of his day. It may sound simple but this kind of food activity can keep your parrot sane.
When feeding parrot mix, choose one that has a good variety of seeds in it and not a cheap mix that is 75% sunflower, also make sure it has a good variety of dried fruit and vegetables. If using pelleted diets make sure your bird has free access to fresh water, in tests we have noticed a considerable increase in water consumption.
If at all possible move the feeding pots to different locations of the cage each day, forget about the "move anything in his cage and he will freak". This is because he has been spoilt and has got himself into a rut. Don't worry about this, just move things about only moderately initially, then once he is used to little movement then make it more radical.
So now for a long list of foods that he can and should be eating on a regular basis. Don't worry about when and what, just try to make sure he is offered something from each list each day. Also take into consideration that, no matter how good and varied you food variety is, many vitamins and minerals only work effectively when the bird has some exposure to natural sunlight (not through glass etc.) D3 is a very important vehicle for say, calcium, without which calcium will not be absorbed at the correct rate. Therefore try to make it possible in nice weather to allow your bird to have at least 30 minutes sunshine each day, this will do him the world of good.
When feeding grown food, such as nuts, please make sure they are prepared for human consumption, as some nuts that are grown wild will have a toxic quality and can kill your parrot. Nuts should only be fed in very small quantities.
Seed mix or Pelleted diet + an average feeding pot of some of the following.
Vegetables Fruit Animal Protein
Broccolli Apple Cheese
Carrot Banana Chicken Bone (Ckd)
Cellery Plum Harded Boiled Egg
Potato (Cooked) Melon Fish
Turnip Apricot
Sweetcorn Pomegranate Nuts in small Quantities
Beans/Peas Grapes Peanuts
Swede Orange Hazlenuts
Sweet Potato Mango Brazil Nuts
Cabbage Leaves Peach
As you can see, there are many types of food to keep your parrot not only well nourished but also occupied in keeping himself fed.
There are however some dangers lurking around in food so please take note of these following items which should never be offered as they can cause severe problems and even death.
Avocado Pear
Chocolate
Tea
Coffee
Salt
Alcohol
Uncooked Potato
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